This week’s message rolled out later than usual yesterday, but the topic is next steps after the passage of the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act aka stimulus bill. BTW the National Endowment for the Arts managed to keep their $50 million in the package. A victory for working people like carpenters, electricians, performers, teachers, artisans, crafts people, administrators in the arts. BTW, then Senator Barack Obama was a co-sponsor of DC House Voting Rights Act. More on that coming up.
I like totally spaced out on Fashion Week (Fall 2009 collections) which wrapped up in NYC yesterday.
On the topic of “fashion,” I tend to defer to Robin Givhan on this blog. Like me, Robin knows fashion is more than just expensive clothes. And we don’t obsess over Anna Wintour’s sunglasses.
In the Washington Post today, Robin’s wrap up for fashion week included what I was suspecting since the announcement of the move of fashion week from Bryant Park:
The decline in our consumer culture has caused a significant amount of stress in the fashion industry, and that, in turn, has caused it to cleave in two. There are designers who respond to the dire state of the financial system by doing some of their best or most creative work. The crisis serves as a challenge, daring them to make themselves more relevant and irresistible to consumers than ever. But another group of designers seems to be cracking under the pressure. Their indulgences appear even more narcissistic and out-of-touch than ever.
I’ve noticed swing towards clothes that are wearable, I mean daytime, to work, look fabulous and sane wearable. Things real people can wear. That makes me happy. Eighties retro does not. This year some designers are trying to bring back the good ole days of the GOP with Reagan era glam. Back then, I stuck with the classics. If you were talking party politics, in the 80s I was a throwback to the Eisenhower and Kennedy eras. I’d even settle for Calvin Coolidge. Does anyone wear fair isle sweaters anymore? I had no fashion sense or the money to buy one in those days. I did like the old Banana Republic when it was into it’s “Out of Africa” thing, a totally un-PC concept, but the classic clothes were very fashionable. One of my favorite pieces was a green flight suit tailored for a woman meaning fitted in the waist. Great for those impromptu sleep overs. No separates to leave behind. The downside is when you have to use the public restroom. This is just for women. Having to practically undress to take care of business will make you reconsider the wisdom of Depends. Apparently jumpsuits and adult onesies are making a come back this spring.
Yeseterday, I fell back on one of my old cheap thrills — buying fashion magazines. I scooped up the Spring fashion March issues of Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar–the old school fashion magazines. I admit, I was anxiously awaiting for Vogue to hit the stands — featuring Michelle Obama on the cover, the 2nd First Lady to land the spot (Hillary Clinton was the first). But let’s be honest, Anna Wintour’s no fool. Michelle Obama equals sales, and this draws advertising dollars. A stimulus for the magazine.
March Vogue is noticeably thicker than March Bazaar which features Sarah Jessica Parker (SJP) on the cover, the other pop culture fashion icon. Sarah’s fashion spread is a tribute to former Bazaar fashion editor and fashion diva Diana Vreeland in which Carrie Sarah is styled in the role of Diana. Vreeland’s deliciously chatty autobiography, D.V. (first edition) still sits on my bookshelf. I’ll never part with it. But I couldn’t say the same for SJP. In the photos she looks detatched from the concept. She’s not channeling D.V. She’s wearing clothes and posing for the camera or being directed by the DP. In the article, it’s quite obvious SJP does not relate to the over-the-top grand style that was D.V.:
In response to one of D.V.’s “Why Don’t You’s” columns in a vintage bazaar where the fashion editor suggests “rinse your blonde child’s hair in dead champaigne,” SJP says, “That kind of decadence is foreign to me; it’s just such of another time. Especially in these times. It’s just so crazy.” Sarah had a much more successful spread in Vogue last year to promote “Sex and the City: The Movie” appearing with her on-screen on-again-off-again lover Chris Noth (Big). Annie Liebowitz did the photography. Vogue Editor at Large Andre Leon Tally was on the styling team for that spread. Tally is a protege of D.V.’s during her Vogue years.
Andre Leon Tally authored this month’s Vogue cover story on Michelle Obama, “Leading Lady.” There’s no fashion spread. The photos were taken during the Obama’s transition pre-inauguration stay at the Hay Adams Hotel in DC. Here we see Michelle being…Michelle. And that’s more than good enough for Andre. Andre hasn’t jumped on the Michelle band wagon to be her fashion guru. She knows what she likes, and she wears what she loves. And for Andre MO’s fashion choices have been “fearless.” One of my favorite moments in the article is when Andre recalls the first time he met MO at Oprah Winfrey’s Legends extravaganza in 2005. He was seated with MO and Tina Turner.
Did I remember what Michelle was wearing? Not at all. What I do remember was how informed she was on so many topics. And when she said she actually knew who I was, I was so flattered my jaw dropped.
Like many active American women, MO doesn’t believe you have to sacrifice comfort for beauty. I’ve seen transformations of political spouses that would make one think the Stepford Wives creators had taken over. But whatever adjustments MO had to make on the road to the White House, there’s still plenty real good Michelle Robinson Obama stuff there. She makes the clothes, the clothes don’t make her. It’s called confidence.
MO’s choices have not always made the grade with fashion critics. The most memorable moment was the November 4 election night cardigan she wore over the Narciso Rodriguez dress, Michelle Obama says…
In the end, someone will always not like what you wear–people just have different tastes. Some will think that a sweater was horrible, [but] I was cold; I needed that sweater!
I’ll fist bump with her on that! If I’m cold, I look it.
How ever Michelle Obama relates to or uses fashion, let’s face it, from this point on the world is watching. In addition to putting a new spotlight on one of her favorite and established designers, Narciso Rodriguez, she’s brought attention to new hands-on designers including Thakoon Panichgal, Isabel Toledo (the swearing in lemon grass ensemble), and Jason Wu (the inaugural gown). It’s change to believe in.
Unfortunately, in my catch up on fashion week, I have yet to see Michelle Obama’s influence play out within the fashion establishment. Where were the models that looked like Michelle especially in Narciso Rodriguez’s show as it appears on the fashion week website (see video below). The only model of color on the catwalk is wearing a mask covering her head and ending at the tip of her nose. You can only see half her face. We know who Michelle Obama is from across the room.
I’ve slapped Bazaar on the wrist for this before, but it is not unusual for them to have a “whites only” fashion spread. Have they not read the memo yet? There are some stock photos taken from the runway of black , brown, red, beige, and yellow models in editorial columns, but rarely is there a feature model or models of color in the fashion spread. [Tyra Banks did do a “let’s pretend I’m MO” spread in 2008, but enough of the pretending already.] Bazaar’s brought commendable age diversity to the fashion editorial pages (because women over 40 buy clothes too), and then I flip to another page and read this:
Then there is Africa. Fashion is focused on tribal prints, animal patterns, vivid yellow and orange colors, and the nobility of primative carvings.
HOLD MY EARRINGS!
Considering I bought Bazaar, yet again, despite my protests, I can only say “shame on me.”
The time is right for a little reality to settle in with fashion at least for now. Perhaps the strongest fashion statement anyone can make is to just be your beautiful self.
Are we living in Dickensian Times? Four years ago I wanted to explore this question, but recently, I’m starting to believe it’s pretty much fact. Period. I’ll go so far to say it hasn’t been a question for the last 12 years.
The times and even the attitudes, I’ve noticed, more or less resemble a Charles Dickens novel: Contempt for people living in poverty, contempt for the unemployed or underemployed, the homeless, children, women – as if they are totally responsible for any unfortunate circumstances thrust on them.
The prison industrial complex and even some of our public schools can be inserted into the pages of “Oliver Twist.” The “Scroogicizing” of our domestic policy by lawmakers — “Are there not enough prisons? Are there not enough workhouses?” — and their unwillingness to help those needing the most, in favor of bailouts for those wanting the most.
I don’t think we talk about class enough. I think it’s on the top of the list of unspeakables (even politics and religion have been crossed off that list). We don’t take class seriously here in the US because for some reason we think we’re above it. We believe the battle for independence dropped the subject. Like it or not, we have class issues, very deep ones. They can be as defining as DNA.
Our culture loves the rags to riches and comeback stories. They’re inspiring but can also mislead and distract from the root of the problem in our social environment. The same rules, attidues, and expectations are still firmly in place. The rags to riches and comeback kids have only figured them out and artfully worked the rules to their advantage.
We have code words to dismiss the discussion: “elitist,” a bottom up put down of people with a college education and different tastes. Count it as another divisive tactic and diversion from seriously tackling the issue of inferior public education, lack of access to higher education and training programs. Usually the people tagged as “elitist” have much less cash than the “ah shucks” bootstraps types. That’s what makes our country complicated. It’s like living in a parallel universe.
A few days ago, Pacifica Radio’s Democracy Now with Amy Goodman reported that two judges in Pennsylvania were being charged with corruption for receiving kickbacks totalling in the millions to send children (teenagers) to private work prisons managed by PA Child Care and its sister company Western PA Child Care. One of these young men or women may emerge as the Charles Dickens of the 21st century, if they’re lucky.
Apparently, writing saved Charles Dickens from total dispair. His books were semi-autobiographical. His father was thrown into a debtor’s prison and the 12 year old Charles Dickens was sent to the workhouse to paste labels on bottles of shoe polish. He had to endure cruel punishment from his taskmasters. But with his father in jail, Dickens had only his determination and wits to survive until his father and the rest of the family were rescued by an unexpected inheritance. Dickens learned the hard way the meaning of money in Victorian times.
Last Sunday I was watching “Oliver Twist” on “Masterpiece Theatre.” It includes a multi racial cast (historically appropriate). “Masterpiece Theatre,” one of public television’s oldest running drama series, is running several adaptations of Dickens’ novels starting this month and March. No points will be deducted if you choose the mini-series over the books, but these programs are well worth the 6 hours and more.
As I was browsing through the “Masterpiece Theatre” website for this post, I found this among the essays and background stories for “Oliver Twist” – Down and Out in Victorian London.
The Industrial Age and the financial opportunities surrounding it led to a rapidly growing middle class in early 19th-century Britain. Previously, the aristocratic upper class — one that scorned working for a living — dictated economic and social influence. Now the bourgeoisie, including factory owners, managers and purveyors of new services, wanted its place in society and needed to legitimize labor. They put forth a new ideal of work as moral virtue: God loved those who helped themselves, while “burdens on the public” were sinful and weak. This attitude validated the middle class by giving it someone to look down upon.
Class issue comes in more flavors than Baskin Robbins, or maybe it’s just the toppings: free|slave; citizen|non-citizen; straight|gay; rich|not rich; famous|not famous; owner|renter; hedge fund|savings account; private school|public school. And even when the topic is race, class belongs in that dialogue as well.
Dickensian times can bring out the best and worst in our character.
Yesterday, I was pleasantly surprised that Valentines Day didn’t take a nose dive with the economy. I happened to be driving through Columbia Heights, DC, an area see sawing on a boom of commercial and residential development and the bust of gentrification for working class blue collar residents. The remaining working class residents of this neighborhood are mostly Hispanic and African American. It’s not just the urban development that’s putting the pressure on them from the top, but it’s coming from the bottom — gang violence, crime. Good people are being sandwiched to the point that the filling is oozing out of the sides. Who takes the first bite? I heard their stories at a community meeting last month: robberies at gun point in front of their own homes; shooting sprees between waring gangs and drug dealers over shrinking turf; a beating of a homeless person while witnesses just passed by.
But yesterday, Columbia Heights was bustling with red, pink, roses, hearts carried by the same residents who probably carried the heart ache of the people who were part of that community meeting I attended last month. I was on my way to a Valentine Party hosted by a friend and her 3 year old daughter who was wearing a ballerina dress she picked out for herself just for the occasion.
….our goal must be to spend these precious dollars with unprecedented accountability, responsibility, and transparency. I’ve tasked my cabinet and staff to set up the kind of management, oversight, and disclosure that will help ensure that, and I will challenge state and local governments to do the same.
President Barack Obama
Can we apply this goal to TARP and the Wall Street thugs bankers?
The Eclectique Citizen