It’s that time of year again for September issues. We love September issues. For fashion, it’s Christmas and New Years all rolled into one. I’ve got four on my plate this month. After my disappointment with “Eat Pray Love,” a film with, starring, and conceived for Julia Roberts, I skipped Elle; I’ve aged out of Glamour. Just don’t do Cosmo anymore and I’m still waiting for my “W” which hasn’t shown up in the mail. Hmmm. I may check out Town and Country. But here’s the take on my current pile.

American Vogue features Halle Berry on the cover the September issue. Granted, Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour brought the celebrity face to the cover girl world and succeeded at least insuring some survival for the magazine’s business. Berry has been under wraps for awhile after becoming a new mother in the 4th decade of her life. It seems life’s ups and downs enhances Halle’s beauty. This is the second September issue Vogue has featured a black woman on the cover. The first was in 1989 with Naomi Campbell. It provoked a few off-color remarks from readers. The 2010 726 paper brick makes an impressive statement that advertisers are still flocking to Vogue. However, where I’ve praised Vogue in the past, especially for diversity in its spreads with models of various hues, this year, I am underwhelmed. Where Vogue offers aspiration, this September issue appears to want to promote the magazine’s September 10th Fashion Night Out. Even Grace Coddington and Edward Enningful were reduced to editing thematic billboards featuring celebrities (including athletes) and models promoting Fashion Night Out. As Fluff Chance aka Eric Gaskins of the blog “The Emperor’s Old Clothes” writes:

I don’t know about you but I’m tired of the press blitz on this dubious Night of a Thousand Bars.

Before I opened Vogue’s September issue, I saw a woman carrying a purse accented with mink in NY’s Penn Station. A fashion preview? Where I don’t expect substance, I certainly expect style, style, and more style from Vogue. I had to re-watch R.J. Culter’s “The September Issue” to believe again.

Celebrities take up most if not all of the September covers. Jennifer Aniston is the cover girl for Harper’s Bazaar with a spread paying homage to Barbra Streisand. As Sarah Jessica Parker tried to channel Diana Vreeland, it seems this concept is just as dead with the living as it is with the dead. But Jennifer has to keep promoting herself as a “funny girl.”

I constantly deduct points from Bazaar for their lack of diversity in terms of models, or putting black models in the exoticism role. Harper’s Bazaar does manage this month to find some real people who are women of color including a black “It” Girl. When did “It” replace “That”? Shala Monroque (editor-at-large of “Pop”) is the “Personal Style” star. Monroque was also featured in the April issue of Bazaar. Maybe black women keep it real when it comes to fashion. No fuss. Just fashion. Italian Vogue caught up with Montorque for their infamous “Black Women’s issue” as well.

I can totally relate to Monroque for this one simple reason:

I don’t have a high threshold for pain. I have to have comfortable shoes.

Kitten Heels appear to be her mantra no matter what the fashion experts say; and that’s going to be the thing this fall. Bazaar digs into it. Because I’m flat-footed, the Kitten Heel has always given me the little lift. My favorite has always been the sling back style. A little skin adds smart sexy to the look. But attention to the skin around the heel and ankle are required.

Prada

Where Vogue gives attention to fashion form and concept, Bazaar gives props to fashion’s function and compatibility with contemporary women’s lifestyles. This issue is not only a good browse, but a good read. There’s an interview with Marc Jacobs by Calvin Klein; Alexander Wang drops names on his accessories; Jimmy Choo founder Tamara Mellon opens her home and shoe closet(s), Ralph Lauren retells his tie salesman story again (we’ll forgive them); and the Olsen Twins designs for their The Row label actually aren’t bad.

So this year, Harper’s Bazaar crowns Vogue - IMO.

NEW YORK MAGAZINE
New York puts out their fashion issue the last week in August. The first week of September is dedicated to the Fall Preview — things to do in New York in arts and culture, the new season on TV, film wrap up before Oscar nominations. Katie Holmes is the cover girl in a Jackie O (1970s vintage) pose. (Holmes has been cast to play the former first lady for the History Channel.) What I enjoyed most about this issue was its bold strokes. It’s not “camel” it’s “butter…scotch.” And why not. What else is on the plate. “Capes!” “Blazers Work.” “Boxy Bags.” Cut to the chase. Of course, articles are important to New York Magazine.

As it should be with VANITY FAIR….
Lady Gaga is the cover. Style is the topic. But there are articles too. And that’s what I subscribe to Vanity Fair for. But Gaga may be eclipsed by the October issue for its feature on Sarah Palin gaining steam on the net. Like consumer fashion, this read can be a guilty pleasure.

This Fast Draw cartoon sheds light on this. CBS News features these “Freakanomics” type animations by Mitch Butler and John Landis.

– President Barack Obama, Xavier College, August 30, 2010

Today I wore my “We’re Back” cap from the 2007 Mardi Gras in NOLA and added some golden yellow and green to the attire to pay homage to the survivors of and recovery from Hurricane Katrina. President Obama, Michelle and their daughters made a post-vacation stop to Xavier College today. For several years, volunteers in partnership with communities have committed to the rebuilding efforts in New Orleans now becoming an example of both natural disaster and government response failures and recoveries.

Transcript of President Obama’s remarks are available here.

And this past week, for the 5th anniversary of Katrina, HBO released Spike Lee’s sequel to “When the Levees Broke” - “If God Is Willing and Da Creek Don’t Rise.” It covers the one-two punch on New Orleans from Katrina to BP to the extent of the recovery for some, definitely not for all. We know these things take time and a serious dedication to get the job done. But the aftershocks on the human psyche will need more than just air time.

THE PRESIDENT’S WEEKLY
As combat operations officially, if not technically, come to a close in Iraq, the President preps Americans for returning soldiers. Veterans benefits which include rehabilitation, job, education, health and accessibility services will have to be seriously revamped for the men and women returning from both Iraq and Afghanistan. The President specifically mentions expanding VA health care and hosptials to look after the “unique needs of female veterans.” The President also mentions “new resources to job training and placement.” Employers are requested by law to hold positions open for reservists, but often that isn’t guaranteed.

It took nearly 20 years for people to take Vietnam veterans’ post-war distresses seriously; several years before Gulf War syndrome was not treated like some form of imaginary shell shock. Employers, health professionals, the VA, DoD, and local communities will have to do more than wave flags when these soldiers return home.

Transcript here.

On this day in 1955 Emmett Till, a black 14-year-old teenager from Chicago was brutally murdered/lynched in Money, Mississippi for whistling at a white woman named Carolyn Bryant outside a small grocery store. His body was found three days later in the Tallahatchie River disfigured from beatings, torture, bullet wounds, and a 70-pound cotton gin tied around his neck with barbed wire. The prime suspects, including Carolyn’s husband Roy Bryant, were acquitted by a 12-member white jury. The suspects later admitted they were guilty of the crime but were never jailed (they are now deceased). Emmett’s mother Mamie Till insisted on an open-casket public viewing of her son’s body displayed just as he was found. The impact of the viewing shocked and disturbed many. It also moved more people to action. Mamie Till’s decision marked a major turning point for the civil rights movement.

Perhaps Randolph was also thinking about 1939, the year contralto Marian Anderson was barred from performing in DAR’s Constitution Hall because the venue was segregated and Anderson, who had performed with the Metropolitan Opera, was a “Negro.” First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt withdrew her membership to DAR in protest. The concert was moved to the steps of the Lincoln Memorial thanks to the efforts of concert organizers including Howard University and Harold Ickes, Interior Secretary who gave a great introductory speech which is rarely mentioned in this story. [Anderson was invited back by DAR to perform in Constitution Hall in 1942.] Considering the events of the day, this newsreel has a fascinating introductory slide.

I played the newsreel of Secretary Ickes speech and Anderson’s performance before an audience in 2009. The audience broke out in applause after the final strains of “Let Freedom Ring” and that was in the middle of the program. Even Forrest Gump can’t shake off the majestic moment of contralto Marion Anderson singing at the foot of Lincoln. And as “footnote,” the Lincoln Memorial was built as a tribute to Lincoln’s legacy in the preservation of the Union after the Civil War as well as his as being the great emancipator.

Randolph obviously knew the power of symbolism as well as time and place. He probably also had the benefit of a few Lincoln Republicans in the mix. Today’s organizers know the power of conflict especially in attracting media attention without getting any real important work done. Conflict oils the machine. It can also be used strategically to distract while others carry out an agenda with little notice. For better or worst, this still doesn’t give the greater society a foundation to build on.

The debate on whether Glenn Beck deliberately or unconsciously scheduled his “Restoring Honor” rally on the anniversary of the 1963 March on Washington for the “Tea Party” or whomever is so not the point. Technically, the Lincoln Memorial is a public space requiring a permit for gatherings. And Beck’s event is to raise money for scholarships to benefit the children of special operations veterans through a charity called Special Operations Warrior Foundation. After the overhead expenses and salaries are paid, the charity is expected to receive the remaining funds - follow the money. Even in the President’s weekly on the end of combat operations in Iraq, he outlines support for veterans and families of men and women who’ve served.

But there is no reason why we also can’t pick where “Jobs and Freedom” left off especially now when unemployment is at 10% and even greater among African Americans, Hispanic Americans, and young adults across the board. A livable wage is not a pact with the devil and unemployment benefits are not “entitlements” for people who don’t want to work. Sure there are people who say an unemployment check will give him/her more time — more time to find the job he/she wants and can do well. Isn’t that what the American dream is all about?

Let’s face it, if Beck, Palin, Fox and other opinion outlets were around in 1963, they would’ve done their darnest to shut the march down in the most blatant ways. Of course, not because of the color of the organizers’ skin, but the content of Randolph’s character. A. Philip Randolph was a socialist. And since King was affiliated, his dream would’ve been branded as a quest for a Marxist utopia.

1963’s march on Washington wasn’t just about a great speech or the opportunity for Martin Luther King, Jr. to declare his legacy. It was a culmination and coalition of people and events that collectively asked the nation to live up to its creed, values, and virtues. Is it just coincidence Till was murdered in a town called “Money.” For those who’d like to move beyond divisiveness, “Jobs and Freedom” is clear and relevant. It’s just plain American to me.

No one’s accusing Fox. All people are asking is who’s giving Fox the money for these stories.

After a stop in Newport, RI, we headed towards Boston.

The Ghostwriter (2010) Roman Polanski’s last (or last) film based on the novel by Robert Harris who also penned the adaptation. Ewan McGregor plays “the ghost” aka writer. He has no other name. He shouldn’t. He can’t. That’s part of the deal when he takes up where the last ghostwriter left off. Actually, the previous ghost drowned while working on the memoirs of disgraced former British PM Adam Lang played by Pierce Brosnan. Lang is living in luxurious exile on the coast of Massachusetts while being accused of war crimes (i.e. torture) back home. The ghostwriter realizes this assignment will be more than just copy editing. True to Polanski form, the women are complicated, emotionally tortured, secretive, and seductive to the new man in the room. Lang’s wife, Ruth, is played by Olivia Williams. Lang’s mistress/administrative assistant is played by Kim Cattrall (Samantha in “Sex and the City”) Considering Polanski’s state of affairs, the making of this film was more than likely equally complicated and tempting. Usedom, an island in the Baltic was used as a stand-in for the coast of Massachusetts and a unit was sent to film on Martha’s Vineyard minus Polanski. But Germany was also a stand in, as Brosnan was a stand in for Tony Blair. What is this film saying about the U.S./U.K. relationship at the height of the Iraq affair. Complicated, emotionally tortured, and seductive.

On the way to Canada…

The romance channel had a few oldies but goodies. A Princess cruise ship was the setting for the television series “The Love Boat.” Summertime (1955) with Katharine Hepburn as Jane Hudson and Renato Rossano Brazzi as Renato de Rossi. Jane is a not so young single woman who takes a solo trip to Venice that turns out not to be so solo after all when she meets Renato, a handsome antiques dealer. For our trip, we only had a few hours in each destination. No time to shop for antiques or antique dealers. “Summertime” makes you feel like you’re in the real Venice, nooks, cracks and all. The film was directed by David Lean with cinematography by Jack Hildyard. There’s no special set ups, no very few, if any stand ins or rearrangements. And like a good vacation, Jane comes away with….

St. John, New Brunswick…I saw a bust of Queen Victoria above the doorway inside the Anglican Church in St. John.

My favorite of the week was Young Victoria staring Emily Blunt as Queen Victoria. The story was about the personal and public politics of England’s longest serving sovereign in the year she ascends to the throne. If her uncle had died before his niece turned 18, Victoria would’ve been under the power of a regency. As it is, an ambitious aide to her mother tries to force her to sign an order giving him authority until Victoria is 25 years old. Apparently teen Victoria knew the perks of power in her own right but she needed a trustworthy ally. Enter Albert who not only understands the game but puts his lady’s happiness and well being over the perks of the throne. Lucky Victoria finds true love and a partner (without a hidden agenda) in one package. Who needs a power struggle in a marriage.

I’ve become quite a fan of Emily Blunt since “The Devil Wears Prada,” an imperfect movie that I repeat watch from time-to-time. Every actor has his/her “Did You Hear About the Morgans?” But for now Blunt’s churning along, building visibility, credibility and a fan base. Let’s hope more roles worthy of her talent will be added to her portfolio.

On the way back to New York…actually Brooklyn. One of my screwball favorites.

This week, President Obama revisits his thoughts about the Citizens United decision (which benefits corporations, associations and unions alike when it comes to influencing elections with well financed messaging in his weekly message).

They can buy millions of dollars worth of TV ads – and worst of all, they don’t even have to reveal who is actually paying for them. You don’t know if it’s a foreign-controlled corporation. You don’t know if it’s BP. You don’t know if it’s a big insurance company or a Wall Street Bank. A group can hide behind a phony name like “Citizens for a Better Future,” even if a more accurate name would be “Corporations for Weaker Oversight.”

It appears the President is still annoyed with BP too. This singling out hints at his earlier criticism about BP spending $50 million to “manage their image” vs. putting time and money into addressing the damage. Tomorrow, the Gulf Coast Claims Agency opens headed by Kenneth Feinberg who was jointly appointed by President Obama and BP (Feinberg administered the 9-11 Victim Compensation Fund). Application information is available here.

Persons who filed claims earlier with BP will not have to refile with the agency. The agency is set up with the $20 billion BP promised to deposit into a special account set up for this purpose. By August 9, BP had deposited an initial $3 billion into the escrow account (Citigroup Inc. is the corporate trustee). How BP will pay the remaining $17 billion has been under discussion. Perhaps singling out BP also signals how well these discussions may be going between the oil company and the White House. Meanwhile, at least one major leak is sealed for the time being.

Transcript here.

IN THE OBAMA’S FOOTSTEPS - BAR HARBOR, ME

Eclectique916 was on the road (actually on the seas) this past week and has a presidential moment to share with the readers. Imagine what the first “Washington slept here” signs looked like. Or maybe taverns and other establishments weren’t initially as enthusiastic when a “first” came to call. This sign is outside Stewman’s Lobster Pound in Bar Harbor, ME where i had a delicious lobster roll, sweet potato fries, and slaw. Being that the Obamas are kind of “foodies,” you can interpret the sign as you would the 4 star system. But does being “here” mean the same thing as “eating” here. I guess I should’ve asked but I was too enthralled with my food.

The Obama family spent a weekend in Bar Harbor which included a tour of Acadia National Park. The peak is Cadillac Mountain. Our tour guide vacationed in Bar Habor for many years before putting down permanent roots. He had a lot of soul about the island. I was impressed that I could see the rocks and other natural objects through the water. There are some waters that you can’t swim or ride a motor boat because it’s used for drinking and other public consumption. You won’t find BP here. [Maybe a vacationing CEO.] But you may find this blogger back on the Bar Harbor scene sometime in the future.

For some odd reason I’ve watched The Godfather twice this year (nearly 3 times): once from my personal DVD; once by accident on one of the UHF stations but had to cut it short; and finally to finish where I left off when the UHF station rebroadcast it. I was just a kid when I saw it the first time with my family. Afterall, it’s a family story right? Or an offer I couldn’t refuse.

The brilliant and maybe disturbing thing about “The Godfather” (based on the book by Mario Puzo) is how with all their shady business, the Corleones resemble a typical patriarchal family with big American dreams. You recognize these characters. That was probably Francis Ford Coppola’s goal. And perhaps its more disturbing characteristic is how Michael embodies the best and worst of what is sadly the reality of all power struggles business and otherwise. You want to be and run away from him. It is probably Michael’s internal struggle as well.

It’s my understanding several of my cousins made decisions never to use drugs based on this one movie moment. As the families gather for a business meeting to discuss the inevitable future — narcotics, the strategy on where to put the dirty new business is laid out. One family don gets up and says “…In my city we would keep the traffic with the dark people, the coloreds. They’re animals anyway.” For that “The Godfather” is valuable. Unfortunately, “Scareface” would be the icon of the next generation.

“The Godfather” story gets even better behind-the-scenes. Check out this March 2009 Vanity Fair story, “The Godfather Wars,” by Marc Seal.

Or this gem from “The Lives They Lived” interview with Sammy “The Bull” Gravano of the Gambino crime family by Jeffrey Golberg for the New York Times (January 2, 2000).

“The Godfather has respect in it, but that doesn’t exist anymore.”

Jac Venza who was executive producer of Great Performances gambled on acquiring Brideshead… from Grenada of the U.K. featuring unknowns Jeremy Irons and Anthony Andrews as Charles Rider and Sebastian Flyte. It would be Sir Lawrence Olivier’s final performance, Clare Bloom’s most chilling as the pious Lady Marchmain, and a brilliant appearance by Sir John Gielgud. Brideshead was a British coup dropped on an American audience. Coming at the dawn of the television mini-series renaissance (”Upstairs Downstairs,” “Roots”), Brideshead Revisited, with its unrepentant gay characters, theme, and three artfully crafted nude moments, had enough ingredients to rattle the American public television viewer’s delicate sensibilities. But just the opposite happened.

Jeremy Irons’ star was launched, and a classic was born. Shortly after, Charles Keating (who plays Rex) would make his way to U.S. with the Royal Shakespeare Company (I actually met him). He would continue his career in American soaps with a more recent appearance in HBO’s series “Sex and the City.”
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When Waugh wrote the novel, he was a recent convert to Catholicism. In many ways, Brideshead Revisited is autobiographical (read more in this April Vanity Fair article about the real Flytes). The more I watch, the more the religious themes stand out. Though the aristocratic Flytes are consumed by religious custom (as Catholic minorities), they can never artfully articulate their ideology or values outside a personal desire for salvation by or against their own will. “It just is” may be the best explanation they can offer. Charles, the agnostic, insists on a debate. But as a friend put it — his arms are too short to box with God. Religion is not logic. Perhaps Charles’ greatest desire is to believe in something.

This clip is from the second episode - my favorite - when Charles and Sebastian go to Venice to visit Lord Marchmain (Olivier), Sebastian’s father. It would be one of the last good moments between Charles and Sebastian as Sebastian’s addiction to alcohol and other demons related to his family begin to close in on him.

Note: I have not, and will not see the recent feature film version. Reviews from fans of the mini-series and book were dismal.

This was one I missed when it came out. Before “freedom fries,” the last great butting of heads between the U.S. and the French was about [mais qui] wine: “Judgement of Paris.” Bottle Shock (2008) dramatizes how California wines from Napa and Sonoma earned their props in 1976–around the same time Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse was cooking up a French storm using local ingredients in Berkley. Foodie film? Perhaps. And from the very beginning, you know how it’s going to end which is why having a cast that includes Alan Rickman as Steven Spurrier, Bill Pullman as Jim Barrett, and relatively newcomer (at the time) Chris Pine as Bo Barrett was essential to the cultivation.

The landscape scenes are beautiful. But you can tell there were some faux grapes in some of the closeups. Nevertheless, it makes me long for Cali again even more so than Paris. Obviously, the film doesn’t blind taste.

There’s a cute and quick jab at Gallo.

Recommended pairings:
Last Call written by Daniel Okrent. The tag line says it all - the rise and fall of prohibition. Even they took a jab at Gallo. This is not just one of the most thorough tellings of prohibition, but of American populist politics and more attacks on the Constitution. No one’s hands are clean. Or in the words of Pauline Morton Sabin, heiress of the Morton Salt Company, prohibition had become “an attempt to enthrone hypocrisy as the dominant force in the country.” Ken Burns is using this text as the basis for his next PBS event “Prohibition” coming in the fall.

My fried Marsha recommended Todd Kliman’s The Wild Vine: A Forgotten Grape and Untold Story of American Wine . Todd is the food critic for Washingtonian magazine. In the book, he focuses on the Norton grape considered Americas true grape for winemaking. Thomas Jefferson grew Nortons for his winemaking while George Washington took up the whiskey still. [Sometimes I wonder why it's called "The Tea Party Movement." The founding fathers were real lushes.] But I digress. I’ve heard several good reviews written and verbal about Todd’s book and hope to pick it up sometime soon. The Norton is considered America’s oldest wine grape. It was nearly wiped out, not by drought but Prohibition. Today, Chrysalis Vineyards in Middleburg, VA uses the Norton grape for their wines. Virginia has a thing for history. So do I.

BOARDWALK EMPIRE (a new series on HBO)
From the makers of “The Sopranos” and Martin Scorsese. Atlantic City. The 1920s. Prohibition. …I can stop right there. Premieres September 19. Here’s the trailer:

Bottoms Up!